Before the leads come out
Check the handbook: some modern cars specify jump points and procedures, and some manufacturers steer you to assistance instead. Check the flat battery is not cracked or leaking — a damaged battery is not for jumping. Both cars off, in park/neutral, handbrakes on, cars not touching.
The sequence
Red lead: donor positive to flat positive. Black lead: donor negative to a bare-metal earth point on the flat car’s engine (the handbook shows it) — away from the battery. Start the donor, let it run a few minutes, start the flat car, then remove leads in reverse order without letting clamps touch anything.
Afterwards — the part everyone skips
A jump is not a cure. Drive 30+ minutes or get the battery tested the same day; if the car needed jumping for no obvious reason (lights left on), test battery AND charging. Recurring flatness has a findable cause.
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Frequently asked questions
Why not connect to the flat battery’s negative post?
The earth-point rule keeps the final (spark-prone) connection away from any battery gases. It is the standard safe procedure — use the marked earth point.
Can a small car jump a big diesel?
Often at the margin or not at all — big diesels demand serious cranking current. A booster pack or a mechanic’s visit beats cooking a small donor car.
Are lithium booster packs safe?
Good ones, used per instructions, yes — and they remove the second-car choreography. Keep it charged in the boot; winter is its season.
Written and reviewed by the Escargo team · Updated 9 August 2026 · Escargo shows real local businesses only — where none is listed yet, the page says so honestly.